Four cafes reveal the heart of Itaewon, Seoul’s vibrant arts district

Seoul

On a recent trip to Seoul,  I found myself with extra time on my hands. Being the Hyatt points whore I am, I was staying at the very grand Grand Hyatt Seoul. Set on top of one of Seoul’s highest hills the Grand Hyatt welcomes business travelers, US Presidents, and well-heeled families from Asia.  With several restaurants, bars, a spa, and massive swimming complex on-site, it was tempting to stay ensconced in this Western luxury paradise. But caffeine and insatiable wanderlust called, so I ventured out to explore the cafes of the hill neighborhood of Itaewon.

Itaewon cascades down this broad hill to the west, fanning out north and south as you meander down the hill. An attractive neighborhood of narrow, winding lanes, it surprisingly reminded of European hill cities.  An attractive neighborhood of art galleries, embassies, and most importantly excellent coffee.  Beyond Itaewon you come to the War Memorial, Yongsan Park, and the National Museum of Korea. To the north and east Itaewon climbs into Seoul’s most prominent and known hill including Namsan Park, Seoul Tower, and the Botanical Garden. With all of these sights nearby, it makes an excellent base for exploring Seoul, or an easy stop between activities. 

Itaewon also has an impressive, rich history. Originally a horse trading hub, Itaewon took its name from an inn nearby and refers to the pear trees that used to be here. When Korea opened to the Western world in the 1800’s, coffee was first introduced to the royal court, on the northern side of Namsam Park. Foreign legations, especially the French and Americans, brought their love of coffee with them. Itaewon around the same time became a prominent area for embassies and inns catering to foreign travelers. The arrival of a US military base in 1945 made Itaewon an attractive area for brothels and bars. :) Over time the area transitioned to shopping, art galleries, and Seoul’s LGBTQ+ neighborhood. One of the most tragic events in Itaewon’s history happened in 2022 when 100’s of people, mostly young adults, were killed in a stampede during the area’s Halloween celebration. Today the neighborhood brims with creativity, a global sensibility, and a hip energy that’s in contrast to the more business-oriented neighborhoods to the north.

Here I feature four cafes that grabbed me both for quality of coffee and unique, special spaces: Kenya Kiambu, Hermian, Tiger, and Berkeley.

Kenya Kiambu 

Walking into Kenya Kiambu, just off one of the main roads, I’m instantly struck by the interesting collection of travel ephemera [look at pics] including masks, pots, etc from all over the world.  Indoor seating near the street allows for watching the mix of suits (maybe from the embassies nearby), tourists, and workers passing along this busy street. Tables are sprinkled throughout the space, so you can find a cosy spot for quiet conversations. But push back further into the space to find the true gem of Kenya Kiambu - the view. A massive picture window frames a perfect view of Namsa and Seoul tower, with Itaewon cascading gently in the foreground. Combined with an excellent iced coffee - something I learned was a duly popular in humid 80+ degree weather - it’s easy to pass a pleasant hour here.

Hemian Coffee Bar

Wandering down the hill to the west and south, you’ll pass some excellent views of the city spreading south to the Han river as well as a number of embassies. One interesting stop for a bit of history and view (and to let the caffeine fully take effect) is Itaewon Bugundang Historical Park. Holding a small shrine, this quiet park has great views of the tower and west.  Hemian Coffee Bar sits at a small tightly angled intersection that sees foot traffic from other neighborhood visitors. The space is an unintentionally soft brutalist gem with a high ceiling, cement and brick, softened with wood paneling. A large window with bar stools, looks out onto the quiet intersection and a bit of outdoor seating. Hemian also features a healthy cocktail and whiskey menu. Atypically for me , I enjoyed a sweetened, frothy milk coffee with gorgeous layers. As far as I could tell the froth was created entirely by hand by the expert barista/bartender.

Tiger Espresso

Wandering down the hill and up around to the North, Tiger Espresso seems to hide on a less visited side street. Like so many of the cafes visited in the neighborhood, Tiger was hosted by one person, a middle aged woman, who could just as likely have been a marketer in a global tech company. As this article details well, she left her job of 18 years to start Tiger and indeed runs it by herself, spending 13 hours a day in the shop.  A large picture window frames the street view to watch other wanderers and neighbors. At the time I visited, EDM was playing, creating an upbeat vibe on this quiet street. The espresso was rich and smooth and the owner, MK, a warm and professional host.

Berkeley Coffee Social

The last stop on my tour was back up the hill, looping towards the Hyatt. Berkeley Cafe sits on a street full of art galleries and small shops, Berkeley brings the ramshackle coziness of cafes its California namesake. Full of vining plants, mismatched books and magazines, and comfy chairs, Berkeley invites you to linger and savor.  The coffee also felt like a throwback to 90’s California coffeehouses, with the cappuccino receiving a dusting of cinnamon and served a bit larger than most contemporary coffeehouses. Berkeley is a great spot to grab a good book, turn off your phone, and really savor being in this diverse and unique neighborhood.

Last Thoughts

As a gay man traveling in Korea, I’m aware of the conservative substrate of the culture. While never overtly persecuted or discriminated against, you notice a slight tension or tightening, a watchfulness one might not feel in more liberal places. How refreshing then to wander through a neighborhood like Itaewon that embraces creativity and various cultures in its essence.